What Paint After Welded Panel Repair
View Total Version : Rustproofing backside of repair patch?
Chiphead
12-13-2008, eleven:55 AM
I'k about to weld in a home-made console in the trunk weatherstrip channel of my Bel-Air. After installation, the underside of the patch will be hard to paint. What do I need to exercise so it will final a long fourth dimension?
Below is a film of the surface area to be repaired. The patches I've made are only tacked into place.
Cheers!
bunkystrimline
12-13-2008, 12:18 PM
personally, i would get ahold of your local supply store and get some WELD-THRU primer. This will protect the metal while welding it up, and near of the WELD-THRU primers that i have used are also ETCHING PRIMERS which helps with the adhesion of further primers and topcoats yous apply to the patch panel.
only spray a coat on the patch panel and what you are welding it to earlier further welding, mainly right where you are welding, every bit i am guessing from the picture that you are just planning on stitch welding it all the mode along the edge.
silentdub
12-13-2008, 07:58 PM
I'grand about to weld in a abode-fabricated console in the trunk weatherstrip channel of my Bel-Air. Later on installation, the underside of the patch will exist hard to paint. What exercise I need to practise so information technology will last a long time?
Below is a pic of the area to exist repaired. The patches I've made are just tacked into place.
Thanks!
I have also been reading nigh how people are using the self expanding urethan foam insulation. It comes in a can, and seals very well, too prevents water.
I see that companies similar Lexus and MB are filling all of the gaps in the new cars with information technology in order to kill racket and likewise add rigitity.
I have filled the pilars and upper back up around the roof channel with it, information technology seems to really make a difference.
That may be an idea ince you are finished, drill a niggling hole, fill the expanse, non totally waterproof and rustproof.
bunkystrimline
12-13-2008, 08:30 PM
I take also been reading about how people are using the self expanding urethan cream insulation. Information technology comes in a can, and seals very well, as well prevents h2o.
I see that companies similar Lexus and MB are filling all of the gaps in the new cars with it in guild to kill noise and likewise add rigitity.
I have filled the pilars and upper support around the roof aqueduct with it, it seems to really make a departure.
That may exist an idea ince you are finished, drill a niggling hole, fill up up the expanse, not totally waterproof and rustproof.
ive never heard or even idea of doing that, but information technology sounds like a rally adept idea. practise you have the rubber weather strip that goes in that location? if and then, putting some of that foam in in that location would create a great waterproof seal.
All Dry
12-14-2008, 01:forty AM
I think filling the surface area with expandable foam will only lock in any wet that finds its way in at that place in there and make matters worse in the long run.Mike
bunkystrimline
12-fourteen-2008, 02:10 AM
i dont know for sure, as i previously stated, ive never actually done this, just im visualizing this, and its seems equally if the safe weatherstrip would butt up against the cream, and since the foam is somewhat flexible, it would create a seal. now if you were to use that really Inexpensive cream, that forms alot of air bubbling as information technology expands, maybe information technology and so would human activity every bit a sponge, sucking upward moisture, allowing it to rust underneath. i would suggest getting a 2 role foam that is used in a duramix gun...
http://www.tcpglobal.com/images/durafoam.jpg
this stuff will expand and form a slip strip of foam with most no air bubbling.
Roch_Greg
12-14-2008, 09:fourteen AM
Weld-thru Primers main role is to prevent corrosion either at the weld or between the ii pieces of metal being welded together. None if any are marketed as corrosion protection for sheet metallic that's going to exist exposed.
Usually ane uses a undercoating gun with wands, drill a access pigsty and spray some type of corrosion protection (rust preventive pigment or an undercoating) onto those hidden areas subsequently the repair has been effected.
Those foams aren't meant for corrosion protection but are usually structural or anti-noise. Pregnant either they provide reinforcement or diminish/eliminate wind dissonance. So they are practical later rust treatment of the metal.
You could try applying some rust preventative paint like ZR or POR-15 (whatever is your season) to the behind prior to welding the patch in. But yous'll accept to do very short tack welds to keep your heat zone to a bare minimum as they production will fire off and cook.
I was out in the store yesterday welding a mounting bracket to a floor pan. Problem was I had already drilled spot weld holes in the floor pan only the subclass wasn't lining upwardly. So I had to weld upwards those holes and outset again.
Some other issue was I had already painted the floor pan with Zero Rust. So I removed the ZR on both sides of the pan about a inch or two effectually the holes and applied some Estrus Block Paste around the holes on the side I would be welding from.
Using a Copper backing plate I welded up those holes and afterwards removing the paste and grinding down the welds I could see the oestrus did not issue the surrounding paint.
When I went to finally plug weld the bracket to the lesser of the floor pan I just once again removed the Nada Rust I practical from around the holes about 2" on both sides on the subclass and at the bottom of the pan where the welds would be. No Estrus Cake Paste this fourth dimension, just used Copperweld Weld-Thru Primer.
Well this time the remaining pigment outside of the work area melted off and in some cases I could see the flames starting upwards from under my helmet.
Long story short the Heat Block Paste does what it'south supposed to do (greatly reduce your heat zone). Plug/Spot Welding volition generate far more than rut than tack welding.
I didn't happen beyond this, I've known information technology from earlier. When I have a patch I'm putting in that I won't have admission to the backside after I mask off the edges and apply whatever rust preventative paint I'm using. Let that dry and remove the tape then apply the weld-thru primer on the edges, I don't care if it gets on the other material, what'due south it going to hurt and no one is going to come across information technology.
Become my patch fitted for welding and apply the Rut Block Paste and weld information technology in.
I've gone a long way to explain that applying corrosion protection to blind side panels is done everyday at any body shop, there are both written and artistic means to get information technology done.
GregY
Chiphead
12-14-2008, 02:44 PM
Since the patch is only about ii" wide, won't sew together welding all the way around burn down off whatever paint applied on the backside?
Will Picklex burn off the backside? I suppose I could employ picklex to the backside, so weld it in. So just try to pigment it as skillful as possible once it's all welded up? The topside volition be painted, then have the weatherstrip/gum applied. The underside is in the trunk area.
Thanks!
Roch_Greg
12-14-2008, 03:54 PM
Picklex can be used every bit a Weld-Thru Primer and works nifty as that but it offers no corrosion protection to sheet metal that isn't going to be stored in a controlled environment.
For the size patch your working with I'd utilise some Zip Rust or some other rust preventative paint to the back side and permit it fully dry. Then using very short tacks, weld information technology in place. The paint at the edges volition burn off or melt simply most of it should remain.
Tack welding isn't usually called stitch welding as there is a difference.
GregY
daminc
12-15-2008, 10:25 PM
Picklex tin can exist used as a Weld-Thru Primer and works peachy as that merely information technology offers no corrosion protection to sheet metal that isn't going to be stored in a controlled environment.
For the size patch your working with I'd employ some Aught Rust or some other rust preventative paint to the back side and let it fully dry out. Then using very curt tacks, weld information technology in place. The paint at the edges will burn off or cook but most of it should remain.
Tack welding isn't ordinarily chosen run up welding as there is a difference.
GregY
I've also used Zilch Rust on panels that I can't get to after welding
Here's 2 examples of areas that were repaired and coated before the quarter panel got welded to it. I'll impact upward what burned off the all-time I tin to protect it from rusting.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/Cougar%20Pass%20side%20rebuild/rockers%20and%20quarters/IMG_4575-1.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/Cougar%20Pass%20side%20rebuild/rockers%20and%20quarters/IMG_4576-1.jpg
Hither'due south the welds on the bottom of the 2nd pic. I did notice there were fire merely effectually the welds where the panels are sandwiched together.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/Cougar%20Pass%20side%20rebuild/rockers%20and%20quarters/IMG_4605.jpg
On that torso channel I'd use a self-leveling seam sealer. It will harden into a smooth durable floor for that aqueduct that will be water resistant. Cream is Non meant for this purpose and won't agree upward or create a good seal.
I would prime the underside using a minor spray gun or brush on the primer then a practiced urethane seam sealer tin be brushed over the seams so painted.
http://autobodystore.internet/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/FUS122.jpg
Cocky-Leveling Seam Sealer Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=JASS)
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/fus802ez.jpg
Urethane Seam Sealer Link (http://autobodystore.cyberspace/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=JASS)
Chiphead
12-16-2008, 04:37 PM
All this can be done afterward I weld the patch in, correct?
What is the purpose of putting seam sealer on topside of the repair? It was originally only painted, so the trunk gasket was glued on.
MaxxdOut
06-22-2009, 11:31 AM
I think filling the area with expandable foam will only lock in whatsoever wet that finds its way in there in there and brand matters worse in the long run.Mike
I couldn't agree more. Cream = bad idea in my eyes.
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